Viva la Revolucion?

It has been two weeks since I went to Oventic in search of the illusive Zapatista headquaters, high up in the Chiapan mountains, but until now I really have not been sure what I wanted to say about the whole thing. I still don´t. I went there with such anticipation and excitement, with such high expectations, that I guess it could never have lived up to my expectations.

Armed with a load of questions and a far better Spanish speaker than myself, I arrived at the gate of the main gate marked "Zapatista Territory. No drugs or weapons", with butterflies in my tummy and a lump in my throat. Faced with a balaclava clad guard, we both looked at each other wondering what on earth we were supposed to do now...

Sometime later, after being shunted from hut to hut, where we gave our names, handed over our passports and explained in our broken Spanglish that we wanted to learn more about the movement, what felt like at least 20 times, we found ourselves sitting across a desk from three Zapatista ´spokespersons´(obligatory ski masks firmly in place) and feeling incredibly nervous. We had a million things we wanted to ask, but first it was their turn.

Although we could only see their eyes, their somber tone and serious manner left us under no illusions that this was not some sort of holiday camp for wannabe revolutionaries to hangout and hear amazing stories of bravery and resistance. Their message was clear, and they wanted us to hear it straight.

They are fighting for the country of Mexico, not against it. They are fighting for all the Mexicans who are marginalised and exploited. All the indigenous Mexicans who have no rights.

Before 1994, the governmenet had never encountered resistance, but the Zapatista uprising changed this. It was the realisation of the need to stand up for reolutionary change in Mexico. For human rights, democracy, equality, independence, peace, education, health and bread.

The world took notice, and so did the governement, but after a bloody conflict, mass repression and subsequent promises, nothing changed. Agreements have not been honoured and the situation has not improved.

This is why they set up the five autonomous areas, called Caricoles (snails). Each zone has schools, clinics and operates its own ´good governance´ system, through which the people make the rules (including the recent banning of alcohol) independent from the Mexican state. Put simply, the governement didn´t listen, so they went and did it themselves.

Perhaps it was our Spanish, or theirs (their first language is a Mayan dialect) or both, or maybe they just didnt like the look of us, but aside from this matter of fact statement, delivered with the stern sincerity of someone who has watched their comrades die and would lay down their life just the same, we were unable to gain any further insight into their struggle.

I wanted to know more about how the Caricoles functioned (for example how their supported themselves financially, how decisions and laws were made, and even who decided who could live it one). I also wanted to know their attitude to mainstream politics (since their appointed figurehead Subcomendante Marcos led an ´anti all party´ election campaign, which it is widely believed contributed to election of the far right candidate rather than the left(ish) candidate, wh was said to have stood a good chance).

Finally, I wanted to know what the interational community could do to support their movement. They famously utilised the internet to galvenise support during the height of the conflict, but since then, their struggle has dropped off the international radar and out of our consciousness. What could we do to help and show solidarity? Their answer: Go back and tell our story.

So this is what I am trying to do now, but without any real engagement or insight it is really hard to write or say anything powerul anough to shock or move anyone into doing anything. And even if I could, what exactly do they want us to do?

I left Oventic confused, frustrated and deflated. Was that it? I wanted to be made to feel angry and inspired, but their was no buzz. It was just a peaceful community, going about their business, and trying to get on with their own lives. And they are it seems, so maybe we should just leave them to it...