Really rather weird Oaxaca (Wahaka!)

On reflection, I am not sure that I really made the most of my few days in Oaxaca. Arriving on the actual Day of the Dead meant that I didn't really get the chance to get my baring and find out where the party was.

That said, the city was beautiful, decorated with all the morid things you could think of: enermous sandsculptures of dismembered skeletons in graves spread across the main plaza, mock hangings dangled over shop doorways, with windows filled with edible skulls...you get the picture.

There was dancing in the streets, with OAPs dressed as ghosts and a very peculiar ballet was pèrformed in the grounds of the cities largest and most striking church, lit up against the dark night sky. Something to do with life and death I presume, but all I can remember is grim reaper and a very brave guy dressed as a horse with fireworks strapped to his back going off everywhere. The Mexican idea of a finale I presume!

I managed two failed attempted to the cemetary, which I was later told was incredible, with flowers covering every grave, thousands of candles and entire families dancing around with huge bottles of Mescal, all celebrating their dead relatives (dont you just love people who bang on about how great something you missed was?) Bit like this blog then really eh!

I did however manage to sample some of the famous local produce. I am afraid I drew the mine at Mole, even for research purposes, as I think beef sauted in chocolate is one step too far for even the most flexible of vegetarians, but I did try the delicious Oaxaca hot chocolate (thanks for the tip Jon) and I did brave a handful of the far less delicious Fried Grasshoppers!

I am not going to lie, they weren't great. All crunchy and salty with lots of legs. Full of protein though I am told! And apparently not technically meat according to the loacls, as they are insects (hummmmm). It was an experiemce in any case and it certainly bought be serious kudos among far less hardcore travelers. The Mexicans meanwhile watched on in confusion over what all the fuss was about.

So all in all, it was a lovely sunny couple of days, and a relief after incurring frost bite in San Christobal, where in fact I am again now, wearing all the clothes I own and with ice cubes for toes and a cold damp nose. Why you may ask? Well because I came all the way here to find out about the Zapatistas, and because basically I am not leaving without at least shaking hands with someone wearing a balaclava. Tomorrow, I am going to go into the hills and bloody well find some! wish me luck! x